There are some restaurants in the world that few people will ever visit, that could be because they think they are pretentious and pointless, because they can not afford to or simply don't want to spend huge amounts of money on a meal, or because it's virtually impossible to get a booking. These places, like Noma, El Celler de Can Roca, or The Fat Duck, are restaurants that hold three Michelin stars and top the 'World's best' list. You might not have heard of New York based Eleven Madison Park, to be honest I hadn't until a few days ago, but it has it's place on that list, and it has just announced that on it's post-Covid reopening the entire menu will be plant based. We've written more than once recently about why meat, and beef in particular, is so much less environmentally sustainable than plant based foods, and it seems like there is a real change happening in the world as people choose to, or are led to, eat less of it. Just last week one of the biggest recipe websites in the world announced that they were not publishing any new recipes including beef , more and more well known fast food chains are introducing meat-free options, and now a $330 dollar menu restaurant is going plant based. Some people might be tempted to dismiss this as a marketing ploy, as a way to stand out and be more noticed, rather than a genuine change of philosophy, but these excerpts from the personal letter from Chef Daniel Humm that currently dominates the restaurant's website and explains the thinking behind the change of direction really doesn't make it feel that way: " In the midst of last year, when we began to imagine what EMP would be like after the pandemic – when we started to think about food in creative ways again – we realized that not only has the world changed, but that we have changed as well. We have always operated with sensitivity to the impact we have on our surroundings, but it was becoming ever clearer that the current food system is simply not sustainable, in so many ways. We use food to express ourselves as richly and authentically as our craft allows – and our creativity has always been tied to a specific moment in time. In this way, the restaurant is a personal expression in dialogue with our guests. [...] With that in mind, I’m excited to share that we’ve made the decision to serve a plant-based menu in which we do not use any animal products — every dish is made from vegetables, both from the earth and the sea, as well as fruits, legumes, fungi, grains, and so much more." "I find myself most moved and inspired by dishes that center impeccably-prepared vegetables, and have naturally gravitated towards a more plant-based diet. This decision was inspired by the challenge to get to know our ingredients more deeply, and to push ourselves creatively. It wasn’t clear from the onset where we would end up. We promised ourselves that we would only change direction if the experience would be as memorable as before." "It is time to redefine luxury as an experience that serves a higher purpose and maintains a genuine connection to the community. A restaurant experience is about more than what’s on the plate. We are thrilled to share the incredible possibilities of plant-based cuisine while deepening our connection to our homes: both our city and our planet." I think that the decision and direction that Humm and his team are taking is based on the desire to set a genuine example about how high end food can be more sustainable. Even if it isn't though, what difference does it make anyway, the food that many of us will dismiss as wasteful or pretentious, or might only dream of being able to experience, trickles down and diffuses. In much the same way as Formula 1 race engineering influences future road cars, or runway fashion informs the following seasons high street shops, so it is with food, what these kind of restaurants do will affect the mid-range, and fast-food sectors too. More sustainable food choices being in the public eye, and on restaurant plates at any level, has to be a good thing for all of us. Oh, and in just case you noticed that I've repeatedly using the term 'plant based' but never vegan, it's only because the restaurant will still be serving honey and milk with coffee and tea.

Why is one of the 'world's best' restaurants going meat free?

Clementine

There are a lot of restaurants that do not serve meat now with Michelin stars and these kind of awards.

It is strange this decision to keep the milk and honey and not to be able to say 'vegan'. Maybe it is the choice because the word vegan would push away some existing customers, it is a word that divides the people sometimes.

Piri

Clementine would push away some existing customers, it is a word that divides the people sometimes.

I kind of had that ideas as well, but probably it is an experience as well, curiosity and other things. As well they would lose some, but will gain others. And the loyal clients will still be coming.

I another hand it is quite a challenging choice, but I like the idea. And vegan foods are more inclusive everyone can eat it! ( I mean if therenis no some conditions).

Many times when I wanted to have food experience in a nice restaurant it was a problem, because of the menu.

John

Clementine It is strange this decision to keep the milk and honey and not to be able to say 'vegan'. Maybe it is the choice because the word vegan would push away some existing customers, it is a word that divides the people sometimes.

I don't think that is the reason, if you are going to pay to go this kind of restaurant most people will order a 'tasting menu' and eat whatever it is that the chef has decided they should eat, you are paying for the ideas and the artistry.

Maybe they just really think that milk and honey is what makes their coffee and tea taste the best and don't want to compromise on that. Personally I think honey in coffee is strange and wrong but I'm sure many people would disagree.

Clementine

Piri I kind of had that ideas as well,

Yes, a lot of people will have it.

I do not eat meat but still sometimes I see the word vegan and get nervous, and it is because of personal experience with some people before who were very angry and thought they are superior, trying always to push their point and dismiss others

Julie Brooks-Girskiene

I can't afford to eat at places like this, and I really don't know if I would want to even if I could, but I do love the fact that there are more meat-free eating options out there all the time at all of the different price levels.

Things do trickle down, technology developed for the space program is everywhere, race car engineering is in road cars, but I am not so sure if it's the same with food, I think a lot of people don't want to eat fancy multi-course tasting menus or 'clever' things, but just want simple food that tastes good. I do hope that this kind revolution towards eating less meat can trickle though.

Clementine

John if you are going to pay to go this kind of restaurant most people will order a 'tasting menu' and eat whatever it is that the chef has decided they should eat, you are paying for the ideas and the artistry

Yes, that is so. I saw that many expensive restaurants with tasting menus now already have a choice of with meat or vegetarian. Inside that choice you should be willing to eat what is served.

Ash

It's a good change especially for such a great restaurant to make a big decision like this. It's clear that they would have done their research and know it won't have a negative impact which is good.

plantpowered

I would really like to try the food there, it is good that people are realising that vegan food can also be art like other high end cuisine, and not just salads and boiled vegetables.

Kyllikki

plantpowered it is good that people are realising that vegan food can also be art like other high end cuisine, and not just salads and boiled vegetables.

Exactly, foods made from plants can be much more various and creative than the things you can make with meat, you need just a little bit of imagination.

Arvīds

plantpowered I would really like to try the food there, it is good that people are realising that vegan food can also be art like other high end cuisine, and not just salads and boiled vegetables.

It is also good for people to remember that a healthy vegan diet needs to make sure it has enough protein and fibre and etc. and that you can not just eat a green salad all of the time.

Ash

Realising vegetables can be cooked in different ways is great. I think a lot of people end up hating vegetables because they had to eat boiled vegetables as a kid that tasted bland and boring.

Piri

Arvīds It is also good for people to remember that a healthy vegan diet needs to make sure it has enough protein and fibre and etc. and that you can not just eat a green salad all of the time.

Most of the plant based diet people are quite good keeping the healthy nutrition. But others has imagination that they eat just salad leaves, but salad can be super rich with different ingredients!

As well plant based eaters use more raw foods, this means the intake of some nutrients is higher.

Arvīds

Piri As well plant based eaters use more raw foods, this means the intake of some nutrients is higher.

I know that it is high in nutrients and vitamins but you have to be careful to get enough protein, isn't it right?

plantpowered

Arvīds I know that it is high in nutrients and vitamins but you have to be careful to get enough protein, isn't it right?

Whether you eat a vegan diet, or meat or something between them, you have to eat a balanced mix. Everybody needs protein and fibre and all of the other nutrient groups. But it is really not difficult to get all of that from a plant based diet.

Arvīds

plantpowered So where do you personally get your protein and fibre from?

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